Despite Shutdown, Lakeville's Ronin Sushi Café Likely to Change Hands

Chef Wei Wang didn’t seem to mind a partially-absent Lakeville City Council on Tuesday evening. The new owner of was still able to get approved for a liquor license despite two vacationing council members.

But a fully-absent state government caused by the nearly one-week old could lead to a different story for Wei's license, depending on how long the shutdown continues.

Wei must wait to obtain his buyer’s card from the state before he can legally purchase or sell alcohol. But the veteran chef and creator of award-winning sushi isn’t letting a minor technicality dampen his dream of becoming a restaurant owner.

Wei is taking over ownership of Ronin Cafe under a 60-day “trial period” under an agreement with current owner Nona Chan. Chan opened the restaurant on 160th Street and Cedar Avenue in 2008 to much acclaim for her Thai cuisine and sushi offerings. Recent health issues have contributed to Chan parting with the restaurant, but Wei is eager to step in and build upon the solid foundation already established by Chan.

And he’s taking the liquor glitch in stride.

“We’re okay right now,” said Wei. “All the paperwork is in place but Nona is still the owner. It’s been a pretty smooth transition and it’s still ongoing.”

Wei said if he decides to take full ownership before the shutdown ends he would have to address the buyer’s card issue and incorporate a backup plan for serving alcohol.

“But if (Nona) doesn’t like what I’m doing, she can still decide to take the restaurant back, too,” he smiled.

Considering Wei’s background and track record of success, it’s unlikely that scenario will unfold. It’s also unlikely that alcohol would ever overshadow the Japanese-inspired cuisine and exceptional sushi the chef is known for.

Wei traces his roots to Kobe, Japan and moved to the United States when he was eight. The chef grew up in the restaurant business learning his skills while working in his parents’ many establishments. His parents still own and operate the historic Tempura House in Lake Geneva, WI.

After striking out to college and moving to the Twin Cities, Wei worked as a sushi chef for a number of metro restaurants before becoming Executive Chef in 2001 for the venerable Fuji Ya in Minneapolis. Wei became part-owner when Fuji Ya expanded into downtown St. Paul in 2005 and his sushi creations and Japanese cuisine have consistently earned awards since his initial arrival at Fuji Ya.

Wei is excited about finally heading up his own place and said he is happy that chance came in Lakeville.

“I’ve been looking for my own restaurant for a long time and when this one came available, it seemed like a far ways away at the time,” said Wei who currently resides in St. Paul. “But I came and saw it and toured the town. I really like this area, and it’s not that far away.”

Wei said he would wait until after the ‘trial period’ before deciding if he would move to Lakeville.

The veteran chef said his focus is on freshness and quality and intends to honor Ronin Café’s tradition for exceptional cuisine.

“I’m not coming in with a set menu or established ideas,” he said. “I know Nona has built a loyal following of regulars and I plan on listening to them, talking with them, and going from there. I think she’s done some things really well and I have a lot of experience in sushi, so I think I can bring something extra there.”

Wei has established long-term relationships with coastal fish purveyors who provide him with fresh catches for many of his dishes.

“As long as the quality and freshness are there, I think we’ll be all right,” he said.

A special treat at Ronin Café, and one chef Wang expects to continue, is omakase, a free-wheeling dining experience where the chef gets to create on the fly from an array of fresh ingredients that have just arrived in-house. The patrons get to experience the thoughtfully-improvised and inspired creations as he works.

To some, it’s almost like watching a live jazz musician performing culinary solos of flavor instead of notes.

A name change to Fin Sushi might be on tap in the near future, but for now, Wei is happy getting to know the current fan-base of Ronin Café and learning more about the customers in the Lakeville area.

If you’d like to meet Chef Wei or try out the sushi and other cuisine at Ronin Café, they are open for lunch Tuesday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. Dinner is served on those days from 5:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m. Saturday hours are noon to 10 p.m. and Sundays from noon until 9 p.m. The business is closed on Mondays. For reservations, call 952-997-6646.

Full alcohol service is currently available.